Author: ellenanneeddy

Zigging Upended: Zigzag Machine Applique: Bobbin Work 3

| ellenanneeddy

The last two posts we did looked at bobbin work for thick thread. This time we’ll look at a whole other reason to work from the bobbin and a whole different result.

Everyone loves metallic thread. It’s beautiful. I’ve heard it described as candy. I concur. That is until you start to stitch with it. There are a number of things that make it “easier” to work with metallic thread. But no one ever says it’s easy.

Why? If you look at the construction of metallic thread, it’s pretty obvious. Metallic thread comes in a twisted flecked thread, a metallic colored lurex wrapped around a core, and a thin strand of lurex. Either way, it’s thread made to be shredded. It’s not one solid strand of one thing. It’s a combination that uncombines with ease.

How do we get around that? Sewers Aid (silicon treatment for thread) and a number 90 topstitching needle help. But the easy answer is to put it in the bobbin and work from behind.

I know. I know. I can hear you screaming “What????” at me through the computer screen. Sensibly enough. But any time my thread goes through the top of my machine, it goes through the needle 50 times. It gets pulled up through the bobbin once. Are you wondering why your thread broke? It’s so much easier to put the breakable thread in the bobbin.

Madeira Supertwist Metallic Thread

For this, I used #40 weight metallic thread. I really like Madeira’s Supertwist for it’s color and shine and the color range. So we don’t need an adjusted bobbin case. We can use the regular bobbin case. But we still want to match the needle thread color to the metallic thread color. You will see both threads on the right surface of the quilt.

I do these most often as appliques. Why? Because they really pucker up. The distortion on zigzag stitching is ferocious. I make the same sandwich as last week, my drawing on Totally Stable, Stitch and Tear, felt, and hand dyed fabric.

I’ve talked a lot in this blog about free motion zigzag stitching. What matters is the angle that the fabric goes through the machine. Straight through gets a thick clunky line. At an angle gets you a very nice outline. Going from side to side gets you a great shading stitch. All out of the same zigzag.

I started by zoning my piece so I know the areas where the color changes.

I began with a black out line zigzag. Then I built my colors in, first with an outline, then the shading and then that clunky line to smooth it out, one shade after another, starting from dark to light. The last color I put on will be the color I see the most.

Here’s the process shots for this frog.

  • spots
  • spots from back
  • outline
  • green shading
  • purple shading
  • turquois shading
  • medium green
  • lighter green
  • medium purple
  • lightest green
  • soft purple stomach
  • apricot shading
  • light yellow
  • finished frog

After I’ve stitched it completely, the stitching lay flat, but the area around it ruffled like a party dress. I cured the whole thing by simply cutting off the background.

To apply it to my quilt, I stitched it down with the same black thread outline, run through at an angle to make a great smooth edge.

What is the difference between thin thread and thick thread?

Thick Thread

Bobbin Case Only

Adjusted Bobbin Case

Always Abstracted by Stitching

Puckers Up Some

Thin Thread

Use in Needle or Bobbin Case

Regular Bobbin Case

Can Be More Detailed and Shaded

Puckers Up Mightily

The other major reason to use bobbin work with thin thread is because you can tie up the ends on the back. Every time you clip your threads from the front, there’s two thread ends poking up. For multiple layers of stitching, that can make the whole piece look fuzzy. I always prefer to work from the back and tie my ends up from behind, to keep them out of sight. This works just as well for poly/and or rayon threads as well. These moths were done upside down as well, but with poly threads only.

Don’t be afraid to work upside down! You’ll find all kinds of threads that have been fiends are now your best friends.

Topsy Turvy: The Wonders of Thick Thread: Bobbin Work Part Two

| ellenanneeddy
Thick metallic thread and pearl cotton bobbin work make up the heron

Do you like instant gratification? But of course! Using thick thread in the bobbin is showy, exciting and quick as machine embroidery goes. It’s one of my favorite techniques.

Bobbin work is the only way I know to free motion with thick threads. I’m defining thick threads as #3-8 threads. What those numbers mean is that if you put 8 threads side by side, they would make an inch. This is what thread count means.

adjusting a bobbin case

Thick threads can’t fit through the needle. They do fit easily in an adjusted or bypassed bobbin case. How do you know what kind of machine you have. If you open up your bobbin and it’s in a little silver housing that comes out of the machine, that’s a bobbin case. For thick thread, you loosen the bobbin case by turning the screw about 3/4 of a turn to the left. It’s best to have a separate bobbin case for the purposes. Bobbin cases get old, so it’s never a bad idea to buy a fresh one and make your new bobbin case your true bobbin case. Mark the old one with nail polish, and keep it just for thick thread.

If your bobbin just drops into a housing in your machine, it can be bypassed. You simply don’t put it into tension. No need to adjust anything.

I tend to keep extra bobbins to hold and store thread I’ve wound off. One bobbin per thread. If I don’t use it for one project, I’m bound to use it for another.

Never wind a bobbin on top of thread on the bobbin. It messes terribly with your tension.

I usually stitch on a similar fabric to the background, or one that matches the color of the embroidery. Don’t fool yourself. IT WILL SHOW!

a different frog, zoned

Your image is always backwards. Think of it as a slide. You can see it through either side. I use Totally Stable as my patterns, drawn with marker. It irons on but the excess will tear away.

Stitching in a creature is like coloring with different crayons. I pick black as my outline, and then I zone my drawing. On this frog, there’s a tummy zone, a stripe zone, an eye zone, and the basic body.

I choose my darkest thread in that zone first, the color I want to be dominate. I add a shader color, usually purple, brown or a complement to the color. Then I go through a range of the color, dark to light, and add a shocker color, usually the complement right before the last lightest color.

eye colors in sliver

The eye is always done in sliver thread so it’s shiny and wet. I use black for the pupil, an iris color, and iridescent white for the spark.

Eye

Here’s a progression of stitching and thread on this frog

  • thread one green zone
  • thread two green zone
  • thread three green zone
  • thread four green zone
  • thread five green zone
  • thread one stripe zone
  • thread two striped zone
  • finished frog on background

Some basic things about thick thread bobbin work:

Only work with a straight stitch: Zigzag stitching tends to sew your piece to your needle plate and jam your machine.

When you fill in your stitching, remember that the thick thread fills up more space than the thinner thread on top. Leave a little space.

Pick a #40 weight embroidery thread for the top thread. I like polyester, for it’s strength. You should either match the color to your bobbin thread, or like the mix of them together. You will see both on the front of your piece.

New project, new needle! New day, new needle! I use #90 topstitching needles because they’re strong and have a large eye that reduces thread breakage.

Midnight Stroll

I could stitch directly into my top as well. It integrates better into the background, but it tends to distort things. If an image is under three inches square, I may well embroider right on the surface.

frog cut out and ready to go

But if it’s a big enough image, It’s better done on a separate sandwich of felt, Tear Away, Totally Stable and suitable hand dye to match. It can be appliqued onto the surface and will look like it belongs perfectly

Don’t be afraid to be upside down. Bobbin work makes the most impressive images quickly and easily.

Arse Over Teakettle: The Art of Stubborn Bobbin Work

| ellenanneeddy

I spent the week fighting with a sewing machine, and a thread. That’s not anything new. I spend a lot of time fighting with a sewing machine and thread.

But I have learned some sneaky tricks. And one of the best of them is bobbin work.

Why is bobbin work stubborn? Because you need to just leap in and do it. It can feel a bit weird and it takes getting used to. But it makes all kinds of stitching that’s really hard, quite doable.

Bobbin work is for thick threads. Thick threads go through an adjusted bobbin case, and you stitch from behind. It’s a great technique because the thread builds up quickly and is instant gratification.

But it’s also the answer for any thread that’s too fragile as well. Your thread goes through your needle 50 times before it lands in your fabric. Your thread comes off the bobbin straight into your fabric. So if you have a thick thread or a fragile thread, bobbin work is your friend. It will make you feel completely different about metallic thread, older rayon, or something with an attitude.

It’s also good because you can tie off each thread, as you finish. Since I use it to shade creatures, I use 10 or more colors at a minimum even for a small image. That’s forty poky thread ends looking up at you if you’re working from the top. No thread ends except on the back of bobbin work.

It has it’s peculiarities. All of the work is upside down, so it’s facing the other direction. That’s not hard. Your pattern is in the back and you can see everything on both sides. It does take a bit of faith about thread color, but you get a sense of that before too long.

Over the next couple weeks, I’ll be discussing several kinds of bobbin work and giving you some of the secret handshakes. It’s one of my favorite ways to work.

Here’s some facts about bobbin work.

Bobbin work is done upside down. So your pattern faces the opposite direction. Your stitching goes all the way through, and your pattern is in the back so you can always see where you’re going.

Your top thread should either match the bobbin thread or be something that blends with it. Because you will always see both threads on the right side. In bobbin work, the thin thread looks like it is couching the bobbin thread. You should like what you see, either way.

Unless it’s a very small image, I usually treat bobbin work as an applique. Like all stitching it puckers up like it wants a kiss. As an applique, I can cut the distortion away with the background

I use a sandwich of Totally Stable with my pattern drawn on it, Stitch and Tear, light weight felt, and hand dye as my surface for bobbin work. It makes a stable applique can is easy to cut on and stitch down.

I zone my colors on my pattern so I know where the colors go generally. After that, I set up a range of colors for that zone and progress through the space with them. The zones on the frog are the spots, the green body, the pastel tummy and the eyes which are always a separate zone done in sliver, a wet looking thin metallic.

Over the next several weeks we’ll discuss thick thread, thin metallic and hand dyed pearl cotton as ways to use bobbin work to create amazing creatures.

Setting Up Shimmer: Moving Color Across the Quilt

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Stippling with flecked metallic

The natural world is full of shimmer. Shimmer is about the change of color, and the change of light. The nature of nature is variance.

How can we create that? How do we build a world inside our art? How do we create the illusion of shimmer and light?

Here are several good ways to accomplish that.

Owl at Sunset process shots.

Hand dyed fabric itself establishes the play of color that nature features. But it’s a soft finish and a soft shimmer. It gives the background of shifting color, and a good glow, but it doesn’t catch the light.

Another way is to put sheers in layers over the the hand dye. It changes the color without losing the fabric beneath it. It shifts the shade underneath and adds texture.

I know some people don’t like the idea of the stipple. But stippling creates more texture and plays against the surface of the quilt. Particularly if your threads shine.

I’ve always found it helpful to separate the kinds of threads I use for field and ground. Different threads offer difference in the shine of the surface. Having a different shine for water, for air, for sunlight, and for your creatures helps your eye to sort those out from each other.

There are three kinds of metallic thread that offer different levels of shine.

Madeira Supertwist Metallic Thread

Fish done in flecked metallic

The soft sheen of Madeira Supertwist gives the fish a scale like sheen that is totally different from either the sliver or the thick metallic threads. That sheen separates the fish from the background, the field from the ground.

Sliver like threads
Stippling with sliver

Sliver, Glimmer, and other flat metallic threads are the most shiny. They look like Christmas tinsel. They come in a myriad of colors, particularly if you are willing to mix different brands. There’s no problem doing that.

YLI Candlelight, Madeira Glamour and Superior Razzle Dazzle are # 8 weight heavier metallic threads. Again, the company brands can be easily used together. These threads have a thick chunky look that is strong and works with rhythmic stitching as beautiful running water. Stitching through a range of color accentuates the light and shadow within the piece. It’s not quite as shiny as sliver, but it makes a strong statement.

You can see the separation between the air and the water in the changes between sliver and thick metallic.

Both sliver threads and thick threads should be used in the bobbin only.

I use all of these threads to make light shimmer across my quilt. And I choose a full range of colors to pull the eye across the surface. And to make the eye track the differences between field and ground by the amount of shine in the threads.

After the Disaster: When It All Goes Wrong

| ellenanneeddy

I like to think I know what I’m doing in my studio. I do know better.

Every so often something happens that just can’t be helped. Sometimes it ruins a perfectly good piece. Sometimes it transforms it.

I’ve been working on this piece for over six months. It’s taken time because it’s so large. Smaller pieces are easy to see, easy to feel secure about, easy to finish. Larger pieces take time.

I was having a problem with the moon. The Angelina fiber hadn’t fused well, and I was having trouble stitching it down. So I laid a corn starch stabilizer over it and stitched it down. It was fine until I poured water on it to dissolve the stabilizer.

I hung it up to dry. I didn’t realized what had happened until I had looked at it for some while the next day. There’s really only one Procion dye that bleeds after it’s washed out. Fuchsia is the stuck pig of the dye world. Dyes mixed with fuchsia also can bleed. Almost everything else is dye fast after it’s washed out. But there was fuchsia in the background.

original owl
owl with bleed

It bled. It bled into the owl stitching itself. I bled too. Then I figured it out. The sunset was now in the owl’s face and wings.

I’ve always argued that art has a life of it’s own. It lives past the artist. It is shown places the artist can’t go, does things an artist can’t do. And it has it’s own problems.

Sometimes life changes a piece. It’s has it’s own life.

I’ve decided that the bleeding is like sunset, coloring the stitching as light colors life. Is it what I planned. No. It’s what happened. But I suspect it’s a good thing. And it’s simply what has happened. It’s not finished yet. But it has been changed.

I considered telling no one. But I’ve always been honest about my work, warts and all. I actually think I’m pleased with it.

Another Fine Mess: Globbing: What’s on Your Floor?

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‘

Dragonflyl Mountain

What’s on my studio floor? Thread! I collect large wads of thread ends. It’s just what happens when you’re embroidering by machine. It’s everywhere, but it pools it places on the floor. It is pretty It seems like a waste, but like most things, it doesn’t have to be.

Threads

Let’s be clear about this. You can save all your thread ends, if you want. But they aren’t all the same. The threads you sewed your jeans with are probably not going to be pretty in an art quilt, unless you want a pretty rough looking texture. I save thread ends that are either poly or rayon, or more wonderfully thick#8 metallic like Candelight, Razzel Dazzel or Glamour. Or Sliver like threads. For me, this is all about the shine.

Nesting Ladies

What does that do for your quilt? It makes a floor of it’s own. Nature is messy. There’s all kinds of bits of things, on the forest floor, or at the bottom of a pond. A nice blob of thread looks a lot like that. It puts in a bottom without a hard line.

So you have this wonderful glob of thread. It’s pretty. You want it on your quilt. How are you going to stick it on?

Angelina moon

You can glue it. Steam a Seam will hold it down. You can trap in angelina fiber. It’s a beautiful addition to a moon.

You still have to stitch it down. If you try to just stitch it down with a darning foot, it will trap your foot and make you crazy. It makes me crazy.

My best answer is to put something over it. Some folk use tulle. It dulls the colors. I prefer using a corn starch film, like Aquafilm or Solvy. I pin it over the glob, and stitch it down. When you’re finished, spritz it with water until it disappears. Problem solved.

Hunters Moon 2

Globbing makes a beautiful addition to a quilt. And it uses up all that pretty thread.

All About the Line: Choosing the Right Stitch

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For those of us who use a lot of embroidery, there are really two go-to stitches: straight stitch and zigzag. There are fancy embroidery stitches, but those two hold up the bulk of my work. The other stitches just don’t maneuver as well. You either want exactly what it can do or it won’t do what you want.

That’s ok. The variations between are vast and wonderful. The angle which your fabric goes through the machine controls how wide your stitch is and how the stitch itself is angled.

But you don’t often see people mix straight stitch and zigzag. There are reasons why, but we’re quilters, aren’t we? There isn’t any rule.

I was working on this batch of butterflies that I intend for a series I’m working on. They were meant to be black and white, although color always creeps in. The blue and purple you’re seeing at the edges is the felt I used to stabilize them. I did that on purpose, to make the lace patterns more visible.

Part of the fun was picking through my lace collection. I went through my black and whites and found some special things.

The border of this leaf lace made great wings.

But back to stitch types. This isn’t sexy but it’s the basics. Zigzag can go at a right angle through your machine and it makes a bulky solid stitch. At an angle, it makes a smooth outline. And if you run it straight either left or right, it makes a stitch that looks like a straight stitch, with some of the stitches missing. And then there’s the straight stitch.

Straight stitch won’t outline. It won’t make a bulky stitch without a lot of work. It is lyrical and can go any direction without looking scattered.

Zigzag covers edges well. It outlines well. It puckers up like it wants a kiss. And the out to the side angle fills in space very well.

How does that work out. Here’s some details and full shots to show you.

Pure zigzag

The zigzag stitching outlines really well. I’ve used it for shading inside the wings as well. It’s a feathered kind of stitch that gives a loose line.

I

I used a straight stitch to feather the wings on this bug. I love the smoothness of the stitch.

The lines on these wings were done with that zigzag out to the side. The line is a bit jagged but more pronounced.

When do you use zigzag?

When you want a strong border.

When you want to fill in a space .

When you aren’t worried about distortion.

When do you use straight stitch?

When you have an open space where the straight stitch will show next to the zigzag,

When you are worried about distortion.

When you want a clean and simple line.

Of course, you are the one who makes those decisions for your work. And everything does work. Play with it. See what you like.

Spring Dyeing!

| ellenanneeddy

Years ago, I did a very bad thing. I had dyed fabric all day and I went to the pool. You don’t get pretty dye on yourself when you dye. And it all soaks through to the skin. You mix all those colors and you get brown. Mostly down your belly and your tits.

So I was walking around with nothing but a towel over my shoulder when a very kind person looked at me and said in horror, “You don’t have to put up with that.” I looked at her and said, “Actually, I do. I’m dyeing.” I did explain to the poor soul afterwards.

I’m a fabric snob. Sorry about that. I’ve been dyeing my own fabric for my projects since I was ten. It was Rit Dye and we won’t talk about the quality of the fabric, but I understood even then that someone else’s fabric isn’t mine.

Don’t get me wrong. I love prints. I can get drunk on color and add good design to it and I’m a sloppy drunk. You can tell by the cut bits of fabric on the floor.

But I want the colors and intensity of my fabric. And I really hate fabric repeats unless they help your piece along. I’m probably going to dye as long as I quilt.

With the stimulus check (Bless those congress critters!) I’m planning a dye day. I need a new batch for me, but I’ve always got space in that batch for someone who might like to order a box of fabric to choose from, or someone who wants something special dyed just for them. A batch of light source fabric in 3/4 yards? A selection of actually not boring browns. Some deep lake or pond scum fabric. All available.

I’ve also dyed cotton/hemp/bamboo/rayon clothes for people. There are those of us who should never wear white. There is inevitably a day when it is white no more. At which point, I dye it and wear it till the threads fall apart. I can do that for you too.

If you would to either make a general fabric order, or order something special for a project, let me know. I’ll dye for you.

The Space Outside the Quilt: Thinking about Negative Space

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Floral Arrangement 25

Most of the time we take in what’s happening inside a piece of art. That’s where our focus is. But for irregularly shaped pieces especially, the edge creates a space outside that frames the quilt much more than a border does. The outside is the negative space.

Jump at the sun

It’s not like the space did something wrong or has a bad attitude. Negative space is the area around an image. It’s not in the piece or the hanging. But it affects everything about it

All Time is Spiral In a Garden

.Why? I think largely because as we walk in and approach a hanging piece of art, the first thing we see is the shape around it. It’s the most distinct thing. You’ve seen works jammed together where you can’t keep one from the other. Ignoring negative space is like putting a gilded monstrosity picture frame around a simple piece of beauty and joy. It’s not a help.

Do I think about the negative space when I’m quilting? Not so much. I’m so involved in including the parts that are important even if they go over the edge. It’s when I’m cropping a quilt or putting it on the wall to see it properly that the negative space pops into view. And if you put pieces together, say on a wall, it’s a make or break item.