quilting

Planning a Surround: Family Planning for Octopuses

| ellenanneeddy

I’ve been noodling around the idea of a series planned as a surround. I’ve done many series over the years, but this is different.

I suppose you could plan a series. But I’ve never seen it happen. You do one quilt with a subject that is either so fun or compulsive that you do another five more. That’s an organic process that I enjoy. But it doesn’t lend itself to consistency.

Spoonbill Series

These birds just happened. I love the shape of them, the bills and that crazy pink coloration. So I’ve made a number of roseated spoonbills.

We’re talking something different here. A surround has to be planned so that each piece flows into the other one. I can do that somewhat with the drawings. They need to flow across the different quilts into eachother. I can do that somewhat with background images. Rocks and seashells can make a pathway. I can also do that with small fish. I’m thinking of clownfish and something small and gold in color. That is the plan.

The coloration should be easy. The hand-dye needs to be all of the same intensity, and we’ll keep the octopuses bright. They should fitin with each other well.

The first octopus is embroidered and ready to place in background elements.

The second octopus is almost embroidered. I need to outline the suckers.

He’s already had a large change. Originally, I had one sucker tentacle closer to the head. It worked in the drawing but not in execution. So I cut it out, and moved it. I think it works better.

shell rubbings from another project

The next steps will be tricky. I plan to rub seashells into the fabric on the bottoms of all of these. They’ll need to fit into eachother. I’m not sure if I can display them all on one photo wall. But they need to dance across four pieces altogether. The last time I did something this large, I hung it off the back porch of my apartment building and walked down the alley to where I could see it as a whole. That was three homes ago. We’ll need to figure it out.

I’ll keep you posted as I work on this. I think it’s going to be a wild ride.

2025: A Year of Experimentation

| ellenanneeddy

I didn’t have any shows this year. Which is ok. Every artist has ideas they aren’t quite sure how to approach. Instead, I spent a lot of time trying out ideas I wanted t do my quilts. That takes time and effort. It messes with production significantly. So I’m glad to have spent my studio time this last year in this way.

I learned how to make waterfalls.

There and Bacl Agaom

I learned how to make a reflection of my subject in water.

In the shell

I worked on seashells and tenacles.

B;lue Herons

I experimented with extreme borders.

I learned to make my own rubbing plates from stencils.

Three Cranes

I learned to incorporate those plates into my work.

I worked in desert landscapes.

I finally worked out the cat head fountain.

It’s been a good year for learning. If you’ve followed my blog, you know, because each week I show you what I’m working out, working on, and working through.

Here’s to 2025:

Major quilts

Small work

Unfinished work

I couldn’t do this without your support. Not necessarily monetarily, but spiritually, personally, and energetically. No art is in a vacuum. I suspect that I would do art if it were just me arranging deck chairs on the Titanic, but your company on this journey has made it much more worthwhile.

Thank you!

Again? Really? Yes. Really.

| ellenanneeddy

I try really hard not to rate my pieces as I make them. I find that my opinions of things change over time, largely in reaction to people’s reactions. If I suspend my judgment of work, I find I learn more from it. Suspending judgment allows me to flesh out ideas and move on. Finish the quilt. Next quilt, please. The learning is the goal. The quilt is almost a byproduct.

But sometimes I do a piece that knocks my socks off and throws me across the room. It’s not an everyday thing. When that happens, I find myself asking some of the same questions that I ask when I do something I hate. What happened here? Why is this piece wonderful? Or awful? What?

Was it the color palette? Technique? Is it about my background? The image itself?

A fabulous piece makes you think, “Can I do this again? How did this happen?”

I love this piece so much. So I’m going to try not to reproduce it, but to focus on its successful elements.

Part of what I love here is the quiet palette. I normally go for eye-sore colors. This was restrained. Luckily, the last batch I dyed had a piece, not exactly in the same palette, but in the same tone.

The fish can be the same threads. And I think it needs to be.

I had trouble with the fish. I wanted a fresh image, not the same, but in the same colorations. So I started several fish, only to find them wrong. I love these. But in terms of direction and size, they’re just not right.

I went through my collection of drawings. My embroidery process uses a pattern drawn on Totally Stable that goes into the back of the piece as a pattern and a stabilizer. So each drawing is consumed by the embroidery itself.

Not to worry. For the last 3 years, I’ve saved a tracing of my drawings for later. It’s turned into a jumping-off point for other pieces, and I consider that collection a treasure. I found a fish that had to be at least 10 years old, which I don’t believe I ever used.

This will be reversed when I’m done. I’m half way through the embroidery.

Originally I used a tree rubbing plate both for the trees themselves and for the reflection in the pond.

And I want to explore the rubbed oil paint trees. This piece of fabric evokes a stream rather than a pond.

Now that I’ve analyzed my elements, we’ll see where it goes. It’s at that awkward spot where everything looks wrong. But that’s the exact moment to suspend judgment and push through.

It may take all those elements and work well. It may not. There’s a mystery here I don’t understand. But I think that part of it is that a piece is not the sum of its parts. Instead, perhaps it’s a whole being itself. Maybe it can’t be reworked with the same success.

Push on. Finish the quilt. Next quilt, please. The learning is the goal.

Filling in: Designing a Pathway

| ellenanneeddy

I’ve been working on this piece for a while. And then I’ve needed to let it sit.

Partially, I was waiting for weed stencils I could turn into rubbing plates. They came from Temu. and took forever. But I’m pleased with them. I want more, higher up on the right side.

Now we come to the tricky part. We have a blank space on the left hand side. You don’t have fish or frogs in surf. Maybe butterflies by the shore. I think rocks would be understated and wrong. What will I use to fill in?

Usually I know my options pretty well. I work a lot with grasslands and swamps, rivers, and ponds. Ocean shores, not so much. I’m not sure what is on the beach except for horseflies. Somehow, that’s not what I wanted.

Google didn’t help either. I looked up coastal insects and got lots of information about pest control. I was hoping for pretty pest control subjects. They did mention some pretty moths.

This is a moment I’m glad I’m a bibiloholic. I have in a series of books, Florida’s Fabulous insects. I have a terrible urge to use a lunar moth I already embroidered. IT worked pretty well. Moving moths could set the path for the eye through the quilt. When I looked it up, luna moths are down there.

So I drew out a series of luna moths. It’s more than this piece needs, but there is no such thing as a luna moth I won’t eventually use.

Design is a process. Solve one part of the puzzle, move to another part. Waiting is also part of the process. I find pieces grow into themselves rather than follow a design I had in mind.

Making Waves: Stitching Waves into Water

| ellenanneeddy

I’ve spent a lot of time working with making rubbing plates. Here’s one of the reasons. There are ways to make waves out of sheers and lame, or stitchery, but I want that feeling of white foam and spray.

It’s pretty. But it lacks definition. I can approach this with thread and/or sheer applique. It’s also a test case for my cranes.

This is what I’m aiming for. I’d rather not make my mistakes here. I’m waiting on some beach grass stencils to finish off this top. But I’m still unclear how I want to treat my water.

The two pieces give me the opportunity to try different ideas and compair them. For Making Waves 1 I treated the white bits as different from the darker blues. I stitched it with 40 weight madiera metallic supertwist first. That was miserable. Sometimes Supertwist will work with a 90 topstitching needle and a lot of Sewer’s Aid. This wasn’t that time. I got about three stitches before breakage. That’s past my tolerance.

So I went to plan b

So instead. I stitched the white waves from the top with poly 40 weight. The stitching from the top marks the back Then I traced the stitching with #8 weight candlight, rainbow.

I like this a lot. I went back in after that and stitched the rest with matching poly 40#.

Making Waves 2 is my second possibility.I stitched the waves withpoly 40#. More subtle but I like it too.

I also tried two different approaches to my sheer overlays. For Making Waves 1

I used white and purple cheesecloth. I found it too clunky.

Making Waves 1 sheers with cheesecloth

I like this treatment better. Metallic lace and white organza just blends in better.

Making Waves 2 sheerswith fish d1

So to recap. I like the thick threaded Candelight on the waves, 40 weight polyester on the darker sea, and metallic lace and organza on the waves. What do you think? What would you choose?

Making Waves 1
Making Waves 2

For more information about bobbin work, check out Arse Over Teakettle: The Stubborn Art of Bobbin Work

Understanding Quilted Textures: Layering for Stunning Effects

| ellenanneeddy

Most quilters think in terms of one surface. You make a top. You quilt a top. It works for the traditional quilt.

It’s never worked for me. If you’re creating a natural world, one layer seems, well, flat. Layers change tones across a piece, build texture, create shading, and add elements that are present but not solid. They can be made from fabric layers, thread layers, and sheer layers.

I also have a layer of image embroidery which is a separate thing.

Hand dye is always my starting layer. Even now when it’s become a pain in the ass to dye, I still don’t want anyone’s fabric for my art but my own. It’s unique one piece to another and if you let it, it will tell you what to do. Who doesn’t need a leg up?

This last month I’ve added another possibility. I can have an oil paint stick rubbing layer that adds substance as well as texture.

Because I can make the rubbing plates I need. I’ve used rubbings for all kinds of things, but mostly, the commercia; plates are best for texture. Oil paint stick rubbing is not exactly transparent, but it does show the background through.

On this piece I wanted trees, water, and reflected trees. I wanted the actual trees to be more present, so I stitched them straight stitch with brown, black and blue.

The reflected trees and the water texture I simply let be. It feels, mirkier, wetter and more like water surface.

I have a beginning layer of sheer shapes for water under my fish.

After I’ve stitched down my fish, the second layer of sheers places them in the water.

A stippled thread layer of Madeiera Metallic colorizes the air portion and makes it shimmer.

A stipple layer of Sliver thread makes the water splash and shine.

Finally a layer of leaves defines the surface of the water.

My goal was to create three worlds, the pond, the surface and the air. I think I’ve got it.

Layers add texture, density and complexity to what I do.

Rubbing Elementals: Using Oil Paint Stick Rubbing to Create Water, Air, Mist and Trees

| ellenanneeddy

What are elementals? They’re not the subject or the background. They are layers of sheers usually that create the ilusion of air, water, clouds, fire. Things that are usually translucent or transparent. They change color and texture within the piece without being obtrusive. Usually they have no hard edges. Instead, we see through them, but they help create the illusion of those elements by shifting the colors.

I put in my elementals directly after I’ve chosen my background and finished embroidering my subject.

Up until now, I’ve made my elementals out of sheers, lace, hand painted lace, and dyed cheesecloth. I love those. But I always want more options.

Since I’ve been able to make my own rubbing plates, I’ve had options to create that layered effect. Most rubbing plates create texture or give you a subject. The ones I made with stencils are created to make trees, clouds, waves and waters. Why does rubbed fabric work for that? It has soft edges, It blends into colors, and you can layer your rubbings just like layers of sheers..

beginning background
embroidered fish

I’m very pleased with the background and the fish. But I wanted the feeling of reflected trees and pond surface.

Fish placed in background rubbed with tree images and water reflectons. Rocks added.

The water and the reflected trees add a hazy elemental layer. What now? I’m unsure. I think it needs a layer of sheer waters as well.

Layers suit water. If you’ve ever walked into a pond, you can feel the layers of water, warmer or colder. It makes sense in fabric as well. I’m hoping to create three worlds, the bottom of the pond, the surface of the water, and the bare trees above the surface. Time to get out the silk leaves and organza.

Modeling Paste: All It Needs Is Peppermint Flavor

| ellenanneeddy

This is an ongoing series about making rubbing plates, part two.You’ll find part 1, Hunting for Rubbing Plates in last week’s blog. I’ve been exploring making my own rubbing plates with modeling paste and stencils.

Modeling paste costs the earth. And it comes in pretty tiny jars. Not to fear. It turns out to be easy to make with dirt cheap supplies.

I’ve seen several recipes, but none of them seem fussy. People just pour in ingredients and mix them until it’s the right consistency for their work. The peppermint comment is a rememberance to school paste and a joke. PLEASE DON”T EAT THIS STUFF.

Basic Recipe

  • Corn Starch
  • Colored Acrylic Paint
  • White School Glue
  • Container with Lid
  • Spritz bottle with water

Roughly equal parts glue and corn starch. Add a dash of acryllic paste, mix, sprits with water if it’s too thick.

Something no one seems to say is that the cornstarch seems to thicken quickly. It may help to spritz it several times in a session. Covered it will last for 3-4 days.

Colored acrylic paint is a nicety I discovered by accident. I didn’t have white. You can see how your stencil is working if you are working with colored paste. Much recommended.

I’m using foam board as a background. It’s a compromise. Wood is just too heavy and cardboard is to light. I’m using washer weights to hold down the larger pieces from curving as the dry. I cut the foam board into stencil sizes with a boxcutter and a plastic ruler. Foam board can come apart at the edges. I’m using blue masking tape around the edges to hold it together.

Picking Stencils

There is a staggering amount of stencils available. Once you banish the cute puppies and cats, there is an endless amount of choice.

Look for stencils that:

  • Don’t have large empty spaces within the design
  • Have a moderate amount of internal design
  • The right size for the designs you intend. This won’t stretch or shrink in any way.
  • Are made of tough plastic you can reuse
  • Don’t have really tiny lines in them

Making the Rubbing Plate

Set your stencil where you want it. Use a pallet knife to apply the past. A flat scraper or dead credit card is a good tool for smoothing things. Cover your design thouroughly and scrape off all the extra. Lift the stencil off carefully.

I have a bucket of water I put the used stencils in. That makes clean up easier.

You’ll find the design is lightly raised from the surface.

I usually smooth the edges a bit with some sylicon brushes and water.

Let it dry thoroughly.

That’s it. After it dries, you can take a nail file and smooth any rough edges.

Next week I’ll explore what I can do with these plates and some fabric.

Hunting for Rubbing Plates: When You’re Desperate You Make Your Own

| ellenanneeddy

I’ve been in love with oil paint stick rubbing for some tine. The ritchness of the patterns and colors adds a fabulous dimension to my art.

IT’s not for every quilt. It’s not for every image. But when it’s right it’s magical.

My first usages for them were little quilts, experiments more than anything. To my surprise, they have been popular. People have bought them and been pleased to have a small quilt at a more accessible price. I’ve continued to make them.

They’ve crept into my larger work as well. I found I could use plastic ceiling tiles as rubbing plates,

What am I missing?: Rain, frogs, birds, grass, pebbles, water reflections, clouds, sea weeds, and who knows what else.

It’s limited. There are some fabulous rubbing plates, but they are finite. No one seems to making new ones. And as a phase in the quilt world, it seems to have come and gone.

But that’s the thing about phases. If they have a glory of their own, then perhaps they shouldn’t go. I keep wanting more images. At a certain point, it has to come from somewhere else.

I’ve tried desperately to make my own.

This has been a quest for a while. I tried making plates on a CNC. As it is, it’s past my ablity. If anyone is willing to help me learn, I would bless you. I do think it’ s a possible answer. I’m not currently able.

I’ve tried block cutting erasers. Words fail me. Not my skill. I’m willing to do something badly to do it well, but not that badly.

I’ve tried piping modelling paste, with limited success. You can pipe modeling paste through a piping bag like frosting. I can too, but mine is lumpy and weird, even if I smooth it out with a brush.

If it’s too hard, too long or too miserable, you have the wrong tool.

I saw someone stencil with modeling paste. They weren’t making a rubbing plate of it They were building a raised image. . But I sure could. The number of available stencils appears to be endless. I still wish I could make my own designs work.

Here’s my first efforts. The colors are irrelavent. They’re whatever acrylic paint I had. I do think it’s helpful to use a color because you can see your raised surface better and correct it easier if needed.

I’ll be exploring this for a while in the next couple of blogs. Next week, how to make the plates.